A Mediterranean Epicurean Adventure in Greece and Turkey

Did you ever wonder where expedition cruise ships that sail to Antarctica in the winter go in the summer? Some cruise the Mediterranean. Others cruise the Polar Arctic. And still others do both, eventually making their way south to the bottom of Argentina and then on to Antarctica for the next winter season.

Atlas Ocean Voyages has several ships doing this circumnavigation. I cruised with the World Navigator on a summer Epicurean Expedition which was a nine-night sailing to various Greek islands and mainland ports, as well as one magical day in Turkey.

The World Navigator was launched in 2021 and is a beautiful ship accommodating up to 196 guests in 98 suites and staterooms. I was in a Veranda stateroom with a private balcony and being able to sit outdoors and take in the stunning scenery as we sailed past islands was a definite bonus. The room had contemporary furnishings and was large enough to accommodate a Queen size bed and a sitting area with a couch, coffee table, chairs and a stocked mini bar replenished daily. There were also ample and very cleverly designed storage space. A flat screen TV provided movies, international news channels, and a link to the auditorium's lectures or presentations, in case you preferred not to attend in person.

Most of the public spaces were surrounded by huge windows so you could look out anytime, even if you were reading a book in the main Atlas Lounge, or the very quiet sitting area in the spa, or on a treadmill in the fitness centre. Even better, there were very comfortable outdoor sitting areas on multiple decks.

In addition to the dining room where all meals are included, there was the very popular Paula's Pantry offering coffee, pastries, sandwiches, delicious smoothies and energy shots throughout the day. The Observation Dome on Deck 7 offered afternoon snacks, nighttime entertainment, a piano bar, and cocktails. The same deck also provided daytime entertainment with a swimming pool, hot tub and much-appreciated shaded area in the hot summer sun. You could order your favourite cocktail at the outdoor bar and have it delivered to you in the pool or have lunch at the grill restaurant while taking in the gorgeous views. One free cultural immersion excursion was included, but there were additional paid excursions that you could choose from in every port.

Island of Skopelos, Greece

The first stop was the Mama Mia islands. As the Abba song goes, we took a chance on Skopelos and Skiathos, two islands in the Aegean where the 2008 movie was filmed. I preferred the authenticity and quaintness of Skopelos. The picturesque, white-washed harbour town had fewer tourists and was near a lovely beach which was almost deserted – a definite bonus in the height of summer! If you wanted to venture to a further beach, there were buses and taxis from the main port. The two islands are near each other and we sailed between them during lunch.

Dining alfresco on the World Navigator's deck was wonderful – you would be hard-pressed to find an outdoor restaurant with more gorgeous views. In the evening, there were incredible sunsets and, after the sun went down, a shoreline dotted with twinkling white-washed villages faded into the distance. The view came with a delicious chargrilled octopus known as Ktopodi Stin Skara.

Mykonos shoreline from the ship

The next day, our small ship docked in Thessaloniki, sometimes referred to as Salonika. It is the second largest city in Greece and, before WWII, had the largest Jewish population in the country. Sadly, during the war, the Jewish population was decimated. One of the shore excursions Atlas offered was a very interesting Jewish Heritage Tour during which a guide at a restored synagogue told us that only about 1,000 Jewish citizens remain in Thessaloniki today compared to approximately 50,000 before the war.

Arriving port of Kusadasi, Turkey

During the night, we crossed the Aegean and woke in the port of Kusadasi, Turkey which was only a half hour ride to Ephesus, one of the world's best preserved - and most spectacular- archeological sites. On an early morning organized tour, we walked through the ancient city to beat the crowds and the hot sun. It was fabulous to wander through the ancient Parliament, the Temple of Hadrian, the Celsius Library, the Agora market place, and the Amphitheatre. That evening, Atlas arranged an unforgettable event. After the site had closed to the public, we had a private cultural immersion experience at Ephesus's famous Odeon, a free excursion available to all guests. As the sun went down, we sat on the ancient stone steps sipping cocktails, watching the sky change colours and listening to a classical music concert. A definite highlight of the journey!

Ancient Library of Celsus, Ephesus

Ephesus at Sunset

Other island stops included Patmos, Mykonos and Santorini. For me, the biggest surprise was Patmos. It is storybook gorgeous and because it is not as well-known, it was much less crowded than the other two islands. The harbour town was delightful, but the real charmer was the Hora, the main town that sits above the port overlooking the sea below. Walking through the winding, narrow streets dotted with just a few taverns, shops and the occasional bakery was another highlight. Patmos is known for its beaches and it was an easy bus ride to a beautiful beach with gorgeous clear water, perfect for swimming. Another fabulous day in Paradise.

We'd heard that Mykonos was very crowded. so, we signed up for a shore excursion that headed straight for a private beach club with chaise lounges and reserved our main town wandering for early evening when it was cooler and less crowded. We had dinner and a breathtaking view of the sunset from a tiny terrace of a small restaurant in an area known as Little Venice. The neighbourhood is known for quaint restaurants with small terraces overlooking the sea. Since the ship did not leave port until quite late (something we loved), we had ample time to stroll again in the evening.

Town of Oia, Santorini, Greece

Overnight we sailed to Santorini. The main village of Oia, is probably the most photographed village in all of Greece. It definitely lives up to its reputation and is as gorgeous as promised. White-washed houses sit dramatically on hillsides overlooking the sea. Not even the crowds (and it was very crowded!) could take away from the charm and beauty. I opted for a morning catamaran excursion that sailed past the famous red and black volcanic sand beaches. We stopped in an area perfect for snorkeling while the crew cooked us a wonderful seafood lunch. The rest of the day was spent wandering the winding pathways of several villages in Santorini. They were easy to access, as buses traverse the island. No need to rent a car!

Since our journey was an epicurean excursion, there were several special gastronomic offerings onboard. A top chef from Poland created several dishes including a delicious onion tart appetizer that was so popular that guests were requesting seconds and thirds. On a day at sea, she held a cooking demonstration and made two kinds of wonderful Polish pierogi - delicious meat and potato.

Onboard Cooking demonstration

The last night's dinner was a Gala. As we cruised out of Santorini watching the cliffs and volcanic beaches fade into the distance, we dined outdoors on appetizers of beetroot chips, avocado mousse, and truffle ravioli. While every course offered multiple choices, the chocolate mousse soufflé was a definite standout. The next morning, we woke up in the port of Piraeus where we had begun this wonderful adventure. After a sumptuous breakfast, we said farewell to all our new friends and sadly departed the World Navigator that had been our luxuriously delightful home for the past nine nights.

Story and Photos by June Massell