Awe-Inspiring Antarctica

WE ARE VOYAGING TO ANTARCTICA in pursuit of thrilling discoveries in a frozen land of wonderment. Our ship is the aptly named Seabourn Pursuit, the newest expedition vessel from the luxury line Seabourn. Her sister, Seabourn Venture, is also cruising these icy waters, and both offer their guests a magical and mesmerizing experience on the Great White Continent. We are 246 enquiring minds accompanied by 240 crew on this expedition to one of our planet’s most perfectly preserved regions and we have come together with our joint love for exploration, wildlife, and nature. And for some of us, including me, to add the Seventh Continent to our bucket lists. We happily channel our inner explorers as we travel to places few will ever see. There’s a warm and unique feeling on this ship, a buzz of excitement and anticipation, as we set sail to seek the unforgettable.

Zodiac Expedition and hike

Pursuing memorable sights and scenes amidst the icy wonder of this remarkable land feels ethereal at times, so quiet you can hear the pings of ice in the water or the thrilling blow of a humpback whale nearby. Then there’s the loud cacophony of penguins calling to each other. We can smell the penguins well before we see them as we set off in Zodiacs to make a landing. They greet us, waddling by on their penguin ‘highways’ to and from their breeding grounds, and on to the sea. We are charmed and absorbed by their endearing behaviours and playful antics. We can’t get enough, and everyone clicks madly, hoping for an award-winning image! Many chicks are still on the nests; depending on the location and the species, some are as young as four weeks old, and each is utterly adorable. In this part of Antarctica, in early February on the peninsula, that mountainous finger of land, we have seen Gentoo, Adélies and Chinstraps, all brush-tail species and know enough now from our daily briefings to tell them apart.

Gentoo penguin and chick at Brown Bluff

Being in Antarctica is a true learning experience and it’s integral to the enjoyment of this surreal and stupendous place. On most days of this 12-day itinerary round-trip from Ushuaia at the tip of Argentina, we have two excursions. We are grouped in colours and head ashore at various times in the morning (the times change daily – the earliest Zodiac may be at 7.30 and the latest at 10 am) to make a landing, hike or stroll the beaches to see the rookeries, taking great care to not get in the way of those highways. We are intrigued by the names of the places we visit: Deception Island and Whalers Bay, Brown Bluff and Hope Bay, the wonderfully named Palaver Point, where the penguins did indeed cause a palaver, and Harry Island. Then we are on to Cuverville Island and Paradise Bay for whale watching, Skontorp Cove, Fournier Bay and the Southern Gerlache Strait, the Melchior Islands, Port Charcot, the Lemaire Channel and Marguerite Bay, the Fish Islands and a remarkably breathtaking, once-in-a-lifetime morning in Hanusse Bay. And we cheer when we cross the Antarctic Circle on February 5th at 6:15 pm!

A curious seal pops up for a closer look

There are strict instructions when ashore: we may not sit on the ground or drop anything, and we clean our boots both on the ship and on shore every time we land. Before we make our first landing, while we are sailing southward, we have time to acclimate and meet our Expedition Team. Items we plan to use in Antarctica have to be brought to the Team for inspection – tripods, walking sticks, used backpacks and such. They must not contain any contaminants that could affect any wildlife.

Expedition Lounge

The security and care taken is noteworthy and there is also a mandatory IAATO (the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators) briefing so we understand what we can and cannot do while on the White Continent. This is serious business. We must remain 15 feet from all wildlife, but no one shares that rule with the penguins or seals! I was fortunate enough to have one little chap walk right by me and pause to look at the giant in the bright orange parka – there is no fear. We have seen many fur seals, Weddell seals, a leopard seal (the penguin’s archenemy), humpbacks and orcas and a broad array of bird life including snow petrels, albatross, storm petrels and blue-eyed shags. In the afternoons, we are taken out in Zodiacs to absorb more of this mesmerizing wintry wonderland, to see the great icescapes and bergs, glaciers and stunning peaks, and to search for wildlife. Our superb expedition team is large – 24 people strong– and led by the fantastic Juan Estrepo, a great fountain of knowledge, along with specialists in ice, geology, volcanology, (there are 91 active volcanoes on the continent) birding, whales, history, photography and more.

Leopard seal sighting during a Zodiac expedition

Many are expert naturalists; all are interesting and ready to share their boundless knowledge of Antarctica’s incredible richness. We learn so much, value our time with them, and are soon able to better appreciate this pristine continent and why it must be protected. They are like magicians, producing marvellous sights and sounds for us to experience all the time. We see a lot of humpbacks, and one day, many of us are fortunate to be in Zodiacs in a quiet cove watching a mother and her small calf feeding on krill. It’s a feeding lesson for the youngster, and at one point, they come in between several of our Zodiacs – a remarkable, up-close encounter. For an extra cost ($200 USD per person), most guests choose to kayak in the wondrous silence – “to get away from the noise of man” – and be delighted by penguins leaping in and out of the water. It’s a highly recommended, well-organized outing which is a must-do. Some lucky guests even had two whales appear right beside their kayaks! Fortune is a friend on our crossing of the notorious Drake Strait; the most turbulent body of water in the world is the “Drake Lake” and not the “Drake Shake.” It’s a rite of passage in a way and we use those two days wisely, attending many lectures, talks and a lesson on how to get in and out of a kayak and, more importantly, don the massive wet suit one is given – not an easy task.

Kayakers with humpback whale

We find our boot lockers and try on our loaner boots for size. There’s a lot of detail and again we appreciate how organized everything is and how impressive our Captain, Ertan Vasvi, and his crew are. We attend lessons on using the Swarovski binoculars from our suites and how to make the most of our cameras and phones with photo workshops. There’s time to explore our gorgeous yacht-likeSeabourn Pursuit, which is very beautiful – there is bespoke art every- where, charming public spaces and we all agree that we love our adorable small ship. We soon find our favourite spots, meet new friends and enjoy the peaceful surroundings onboard - it’s heaven at the depths of the world. There is an open bridge policy, a 270-degree camera on the mast so we can see a lot all the time if we choose, and we attend every lecture to learn more about the weather, where we can land the next day (or not), and potential changes in itinerary (flexibility is the name of the game!) and on many days there are significant changes so we can be more comfortable, avoid storms and see the most amazing things and places as often as possible.

We feel polar fever setting in and understand why we must protect this precious place.

Zodiac excursion with Seabourn Pursuit in the background.
COURTESY SEABOURN

We are fascinated by the topics covered by our excellent expedition team – history, bird life, geology and the ice, among others – and most importantly, we feel the beginning of polar fever setting in and understand why we must protect this precious and tranquil place. It’s already leaving an indelible impression. We live in a constant state of awe, inspired by the exquisite beauty around us. At Harry Island, Seabourn makes a maiden stop to allow us to venture out by Zodiac to see a remarkable graveyard of icebergs seemingly looming for miles in the distance. On another day, we climb icy paths to be rewarded by astounding views, hear avalanches and see more of those cute penguins. We sail past massive icebergs – some incredibly close – but we never tire of them. Each day dawns with new revelations, and every experience inspires us. Yes, we are fully in the grasp of polar fever and are the better for it. Our beautiful ship is a haven of comfort and warmth with an impressive staff focused on one thing – our happiness. They take joy in engaging with us, hearing about our encounters and seeing our faces aglow with the stories of our day – each one so meaningful.

Stateroom with warming closet for parkas COURTESY SEABOURN

We are luxuriously ensconced in a cozy, delightful vessel that offers the renowned all-inclusive Seabourn service and experience – just on a more intimate scale. Our elegantly decorated suites are havens of calm, have everything we might need, each with a balcony for up-close iceberg viewing, a stocked mini-bar, a king bed, a warming cupboard for our parkas, hats and gloves (a genius idea), a sitting area, a walk-in closet and a spacious bathroom with bathtub and shower offering Molton Brown toiletries.

The Restaurant COURTESY SEABOURN

We dine in The Restaurant or more casual Colonnade, (even outside on occasion), and every evening, there is a sushi offering in the intimate Club where the scenery is as impeccable as the service. Special gala dinners are served and we enjoy tasty cuisine and fine wines. We play trivia most days, enjoy musical entertainment, movies on a big screen and the delightful company of like-minded and interesting fellow guests.

Seabourn Square COURTESY SEABOURN

A favourite spot is the welcoming Expedition Lounge with its faux fireplaces, furry cushions, and great, apres-ski like décor. It’s the gathering spot before we head ashore, all kitted out in our gear and lifejackets – and it’s where we go when we return, with a cup of hot chocolate, sometimes spiked with a tot of rum or other spirit. As we’re all here for the same reason, the wonderful, almost immediate camaraderie onboard is an integral part of our adventure. One of the highlights of an Antarctic or Arctic expedition is the polar plunge, in which many of our contingent take part. It’s a badge of courage and great fun, although somewhat chilly!

The author relaxes in a hot tub with a view

Afterwards, we proceed to the hot tubs (of which there are four) for warmth and Champagne. Many book the six-passenger submersible dive (for an additional cost) and find it intriguing, but most of the time, we are above the waves, constantly enthralled by the magnificence of our surroundings.

Guests are welcomed to a special bar on the ice with Champagne chilling in the snow

On our last morning in Antarctica, when we think it can get no better, we experience the marvel of walking on an ice floe and stepping on virgin snow and ice. We had watchedearlier that morning as the captain and his expert crew brought our ship into Hanusse Bay cutting through ice fields – seals and penguins as bystanders! But we did not know if we would land. As we board our Zodiacs, we soon see that something special
is waiting. As the nose of our craft nudges up on the ice, we are the first to arrive and advised we have five minutes to enjoy this special ‘landing’. To stand where no one has stood before, at the bottom of the world, in the midst of icy beauty – tears welled in my eyes at this profound experience. And in the distance, there’s Seabourn Venture coming to greet her younger sister for the first time! Goosebumps abound and then, in an inimitable Seabourn moment, we are taken to another icy floe where the Seabourn Hotel team has set up a bar on the ice, with Champagne chilling in the snow. We toast our remarkable and life-changing voyage and toast each other as well, our fabulous expedition team and our wonderful crew. A few hours later, as we begin our northward journey, the staff provides us with a spectacular farewell party on deck with their signature Caviar on Ice moment, replete with vodka, more Champagne and music. It’s hard to say goodbye to Antarctica as it has been a life-inspiring experience and many vow to return – me included. We have encountered a unique place of purity – a place for humanity and all mankind and Seabourn delivers a fitting end to a phenomenal experience of spectacular scenery and ultimate beauty. As Seabourn says, “This is Your Expedition Moment.”

CLOTHING TIPS FOR ANTARCTICA
If you are a skier or winter hiker, your gear will be great for Antarctica – when we were there in early February, the weather was around Zero Centigrade or 32 Fahrenheit – plus and minus 2 or 3 degrees – some days, it was sunny, and on others, it snowed.

Seabourn provides a wonderful, warm Helly Hansen parka complete with an undervest, ordered before your cruise departs and yours to keep. If the size isn’t quite right, you can exchange it onboard. Guests also receive a Helly Hansen backpack and toque.

You are given rubber boots to borrow, and you must bring lots of warm socks, gloves – I suggest several pairs, ski or hiking pants and various tops to layer. I used my electric warming gloves and I also brought thin undergloves. And you need a warm hat – my faux fur ski hat did the job daily! Some clever folk brought their ski goggles and I wish we had. There’s a warming cupboard in every suite, and it’s wonderfully convenient and well-used for your parka, life jacket, trousers, gloves and socks. It can get wet!

For relaxing onboard, think apres-ski style and in the evenings, most Ladies wear smart slacks, with a sweater or blouse and perhaps a scarf as an accessory. You can wear winter dresses, but don’t overdress – it’s unnecessary. Gentlemen are fine in a long-sleeved shirt with a collar for evenings. Jackets are not required but might be used on occasion. Cruising on Seabourn in Antarctica is relaxed yet stylish.

Written by Vanessa Lee for Cruise and Travel Lifestyles (Fall 2024)