Explore and experience the many scenic wonders of New Zealand

THE WALKIE TALKIE CRACKLES and a voice says quietly, "Penguins!" Four Zodiacs swiftly move through the waters of Doubtful Sound, New Zealand, following the source of the message. And there they are – two Fiordland Crested Penguins, perched on a shrubby outcrop, their bright yellow crests making them look mildly annoyed at the interruption to their peaceful afternoon. The awed silence on all four vessels is broken only by the click of cameras.

Fiordland Crested Penguins.

It's a coup to find these elusive little creatures, but we have a secret weapon. Aboard our ship, the Heritage Adventurer, are three naturalists who specialize in the fauna and flora of New Zealand. Sarah Tranmer and Rod Morris are with us today. Sarah seems able to spot the slightest movement in a landscape that, to me, features nothing more than rocks and shrubs. Later, on board, their insights about these rarest penguins make it even more thrilling to have seen them in their natural habitat.

Heritage Expeditions is at the forefront of a trend that has been growing steadily. Founded by Rodney and Shirley Russ in 1984, and currently run by their sons, Aaron and Nathan Russ, the company's ethos from the outset has been to increase awareness and conservation of the natural world through responsible expedition travel. Increasingly, their approach seems to be attracting a new breed of cruisers who see their journey as an opportunity to learn about the history of the places they visit, as well as to explore its fauna and flora. And while they want to do it as sustainably as possible, they appreciate the comfort of luxurious accommodation and fine local cuisine.

Our New Zealand Coastal Odyssey starts in Auckland on the North Island. Born of volcanoes millions of years ago, and further shaped by earthquakes, New Zealand's two main islands are quite different geologically. The North Island features an active, central geothermal zone, while spectacular snow-capped peaks and peaceful sheep-strewn valleys mark the South Island. Our small ship sails down the east coast, around the bottom tip of the South Island, and into the breathtaking landscape of rainforests and glacier-sculpted peaks that is Fiordland. En route, our resident historian, John Rogers, provides a fascinating framework of history and anecdotes on which to hang all our experiences in this amazing country created by extraordinary geologic forces.

In the 13th century, the first Polynesians arrived in large waka (voyaging canoes) and named it Aotearoa, 'the land of the long white cloud'. This is still its Māori name, and appropriately, our expedition's first stop is Rotorua, an area sacred to the Māori. In this active geo-thermal area, we get our first look at New Zealand's unique geology. The land is dotted with bubbling mud pools, erupting geysers of hot water, and scalding thermal ponds, often too hot to touch. Clouds of steam rise dramatically from cracks in the earth, and there is even a whiff of sulphur in the air. It's quite literally awesome.

Erupting geysers at Aotearoa.

At Te Puia, the New Zealand Māori Arts and Crafts Institute near Rotorua, indigenous artists and craftspeople teach future generations historic techniques for working with wood, bone, and stone. The busy fingers of weavers fashion strands of flax into skirts, baskets, and hangings with striking patterns. Not normally acquisitive by nature, I find myself coveting the magnificent, time-honored craftsmanship that has created such beauty from simple, natural materials.

It would be a few more centuries, but inevitably, explorers from Europe would also find their way to Aotearoa. And in 1642, a new name – New Zealand – was bestowed by Dutchman Abel Tasman. About 120 years later, Captain James Cook would claim the land for Britain, but the Dutch name remained.

Indigenous artists carve traditional wooden masks at Te Puia,the New Zealand Māori Arts and Crafts Institute near Rotorua.

Over time, immigrants arrived, creating little pieces of home in the new land. As we sail south, we visit these towns.

Known as the 'Nice of New Zealand', after the Southern French coastal city, Napier was rebuilt after an earthquake in the glorious Art Deco style of the 1930s. Every street is photo-worthy, but even this lovely town is somewhat eclipsed by our stop at nearby Cape Kidnapper's gannet colony. We watch gannet couples bobbing and bowing in a bizarre mating dance and further down the life cycle, mothers protectively covering their chicks. When a lazy male tries to steal nest building materials from a more industrious suitor, the pair begins a noisy argument. It's thrilling to get up close and personal with hundreds of these raucous, appealing birds.

Gannet couple at Cape Kidnapper’s gannet colony.

Further down the coast, tricolores still proudly wave in the pretty town of Akaroa signalling their French roots. But here too, man's creations take second place to nature. Most of us are looking down as we enter the harbour because a small group of Hector's dolphins, the world's smallest dolphins, is escorting the Heritage Adventurer into port.

The origins of our next stop, Dunedin, are evident, beginning with its name – Gaelic for Edinburgh. Further proof is in the sturdy Scottish stone buildings, menus offering haggis, and of course, the statue to Robbie Burns.

While these towns are charming, colonization has had unfortunate consequences. Often unwittingly, colonists brought along some unwelcome settlers – rats, possums, feral cats, plants, insects and more. Many indigenous species, unable to compete with these aggressive newcomers, were lost forever. Others struggled to survive. Recognizing this, New Zealand designed a unique solution to the destruction of native fauna and flora. They created 'predator-free zones' to safeguard and resurrect indigenous species, while ruthlessly excluding anything that isn't native.

Our ship drops anchor near one of these – Motuara Island in Marlborough Sound. It was on its summit that Captain Cook raised the British flag, and it wasn't long before the island was inhabited by settlers and their animals. By the beginning of the 20th century, most of the settlers had moved on and much of the indigenous fauna and flora was gone. The Department of Conservation, recognizing this devastation, intervened. By the end of the century, they had managed to remove nearly all the invasive species from the island.

Motuara Island in Marlborough Sound.

Today, we are hiking a forest that has regenerated itself. Native birds, reptiles and insects are thriving. Rod Morris points out some of the avian residents: saddlebacks named for the red backpack they sport; darting fantails with wings that look like delicate black and white Japanese fans; and bellbirds with their distinctive ringing call.

A special one for Rod is the kākāpō or owl parrot, as he was one of the naturalists who captured the last remaining kākāpō here in order to bring them back from the brink of extinction. This has even become a breeding area for kiwi chicks. Startlingly, New Zealand's national bird is at risk too!

Resident naturalist, Rod Morris introduces guests to the native species on Motuara Island, including darting fantails like this one.

At Ulva Island, another predator-free zone near Stewart Island, we find native spider orchids and more birds like the weka, tui, and the yellow-crowned parakeet. It's fun to tease a Stewart Island robin by scraping my foot along the ground, encouraging it to pop over and see if I've unearthed any tasty morsels.

Before returning home, I manage to visit another of these zones in Wellington. Zealandia has huge fences that go both up and down into the ground, to prevent unwanted visitors. Here I was lucky enough to spot a tuatara. These are the last survivors of an order of reptiles that thrived even before the age of the dinosaurs.

One can't help but marvel at the miracle these predator-free zones have wrought. A number of creatures once thought to be extinct were discovered to have dwindled to dangerously low numbers, but have happily been slowly restored to more viable population sizes.

A sign on the jetty at Ulva Island makes it clear that non-indigenous species are not welcome.

On this cruise, New Zealand's remarkable landscape simply adds to the wonder. There is virtually no part of these islands where land and water don't come together in grand and even spectacular harmony. This is strikingly true in as we sail into Fiordland. This time nature sets up a competition for our attention: the bottlenose dolphins accompanying our ship, or the dramatic peaks and valleys carved by seismic forces and prettily dotted with waterfalls. We spot seals, Little Blue Penguins, and other wildlife as our Zodiacs scoot through the picturesque channels. Rudyard Kipling described one of these, Milford Sound, as the eighth wonder of the world – with good reason.

Exploring this wonder at water-level, getting up close and personal with the land and its inhabitants, and having an opportunity to learn from those who have made these their life's study – it's not surprising that more and more travellers are finding this new way of cruising exhilarating and rewarding.

THE HERITAGE ADVENTURER

Heritage Adventurer has often been called the 'Grande Dame of Expedition Cruising' due to her celebrated history and refined design. Purpose-built for adventure in 1991 at Finland's Rauma shipyard, she is a true pioneering expedition vessel, specifically designed for Polar exploration.

Formerly known as MS Hanseatic, she boasts an impressive history holding records for the most northern and southern Arctic and Antarctic navigations, and for traversing both the Northwest and Northeast Passages. Indeed, this venerable vessel has set a peerless standard throughout her lifetime for authentic expedition travel.

Originally designed to accommodate 184 guests, Heritage Adventurer now welcomes just 140 travellers in spacious, comfortable staterooms. Menus in the elegant dining room feature innovative cuisine using locally sourced ingredients. Onboard amenities include a spa, as well as a gym and pool. And a fleet of 14 Zodiacs enable Heritage Expeditions to provide opportunities for up close and personal adventures in each destination.

Written by LIZ CAMPBELL for Cruise and Travel Lifestyles (Winter 2025)