Cruising Norway

WHERE ARE THE WORLD'S happiest people? According to a 2023 survey by Statisa, a leading German market data expert, you'll find a lot of them in Norway. Strange, given the geography. During the winter months in Norway, the sun rises late and sets early – very early – so natural light is in short supply. Add to that an inclement climate and you might not expect a land of joyous people. And yet, there they are.

On a recent cruise on Holland America Line, we listened to a clever speaker who explained the Norwegian phenomenon. It's largely to do with hygge, a concept that means making the best of life by creating a warm atmosphere and enjoying life with favourite people. If one wintry night, you light a candle so your dinner table feels cozy, pull on some warm slippers and share a simple meal with friends – that's hygge. And if you take a cruise through the stunning °ords of Norway aboard the Ms Rotterdam, enjoying the comforts of a beautiful stateroom, the companionship of your fellow cruisers, the fine dining and entertainment and a gorgeous, rugged landscape … that's very definitely hygge.

Scenic views in the Norwegian fjords

We've been HAL fans for years and were thrilled to have a day at sea to start our adventure. We set sail from Rotterdam in brilliant sunshine and sailed north into the °ords, some of the deepest and longest in the world. Steep green hillsides and cliffs rose on either side of the ship and were reflected in the calm blue waters, in a take-your-breath-away landscape. Tidy, well-kept cottages in the simple Norwegian style perched on the shoreline here and there but the overall feeling was one of untouched nature and all of our shore excursions celebrated the °ords and their magnificent shoreline.

On one sunny morning in Eid°ord, we paddled out onto the water in a small fleet of bright red, green and blue kayaks. The sun was shimmering on the water as our no-nonsense guide Mike gave us detailed instructions and then assured us, "Kayaks don't tip. People tip kayaks." And one young woman did, just as we were setting out. She'd ignored Mike's instructions, stood up rather than sitting and tipped. She rose from the shallow water at the shore dripping and spluttering. Mike – neither worried nor willing to make us all wait while she returned to the ship for dry clothing – was practical. Said Mike, "You'll dry off."

And she did. The sun was glorious that morning – warm on our backs and glinting off our sunglasses as we paddled along the shore, listening to Mike's stories of Inuit hunters and glacial land formations. Though we were half a world away from Newfoundland's Western Brook Pond, the landscape was so eerily similar that we marvelled at the power and scope of the ancient ice that sculpted both these beautiful places. We loved every minute – and so, ultimately, did our damp friend.

All the Norwegians we met shared that same steady practicality, a trait that serves them well in rugged, often remote places. Sometimes, they mix in a bit of whimsy as well, as we discovered in Hardanger°ord, where we did a long, lovely walk with llamas.

Llamas aren't indigenous to Norway but when one sheep farmer decided to import a few in order to add their meat and wool to his product list, a wonderful thing happened. He discovered that llamas are personable, as happy to walk on a leash as any dog and they make ideal hiking companions for cruise ship guests. A new shore excursion was born. We signed up and were soon introduced to Google, a sweet-faced llama who strolled happily with us around the shores of a small inlet. Soft-furred and gentle, Google was a cozy boy to pat – the epitome of hygge.

Tamarind Restaurant

Back on board the Ms Rotterdam, the newest Pinnacle Class ship in the fleet, we shared our impressions over meals enjoyed in favourite HAL venues. From the fine French cuisine of Rudi's Sel De Mer (if I had one last meal on earth, I would choose a giant serving of their escargot and crusty French bread), to the rustic Italian specialities at Canaletto, the Pinnacle Grill's warm steakhouse ambiance, and the elegant Asian-fusion creations at Tamarind, dinners aboard HAL ships are never less than fabulous. The only difficulty is planning your dining schedule so you don't miss anything! Breakfast for us was always outdoors, after we filled our plates with fresh fruit, gorgeous baked goods and griddle treats from the friendly chefs in the Lido Market. Days at sea were a wonderful excuse to indulge in a traditional afternoon tea or to drop by the Grand Dutch Café for stroopwaffles, bitterballen and bags of the world's best Licorice Allsorts!

While we loved every part of our HAL cruise aboard the Rotterdam, the evenings were our favourite. After we'd enjoyed the Broadway style-shows, comedians and musicians on the World Stage, we headed for the Music Walk, a Holland America exclusive. A collection of music venues, each with its own bar, the Music Walk times its performances in 45-minute increments. Sing along in Billboard Onboard, the piano bar, then move across to the Rolling Stone Lounge, where a talented group will pull you to the dance floor with their classic rock and roll. When that band pauses, move to the Motown scene at B.B. King's Blues Club. It's a night-long cycle that kept us dancing and singing all night, every night!

Entertainment in B.B. King’s Blues Club and Vista Suite

This cruise offered more than the beauty of Norway's fjords. Because we sailed on the Ms Rotterdam from her home port of Rotterdam, there were an unusually large number of Dutch guests. The ship's announcements were therefore made in both English and Dutch, many Dutch food options were on offer throughout the ship and one memorable night, we all joined in watching the Netherland's team play in the Euro Cup. We wore orange t-shirts in solidarity and cheered loudly for every goal scored. Though Austria won, we all raised our glasses to the Netherlands and more importantly to this very special time spent with new friends.

That night and our entire cruise aboard the Ms Rotterdam were very definitely hygge.

Written by LIZ FLEMING for Cruise and Travel Lifestyles (Winter 2025)