From wild bush to best beach: Experiencing the legends and luxury of hidden South Africa

Embark on a journey to the unexplored wonders of Kwazulu-Natal, South Africa, where the wild meets the serene. From the haunting beauty of Ghost Mountain to the pristine shores of Sala Beach House, each moment is an adventure. Surrounded by untamed wildlife and steeped in Zulu culture, discover a side of South Africa that captivates and enchants. Dive into vibrant tidal pools, sip sundowners with hippos, and indulge in luxurious retreats. Ready to uncover these hidden treasures? Read Tim Joonson review below.

From wild bush to best beach: Experiencing the legends and luxury of hidden South Africa

Rolling out on Jozini Lake, the water is still as glass, no wind at all. The heavens are aflame, blazing in reds and oranges, in a way you’ll only see in the African hinterland, as evening sets in. The Lebombo Mountains line one side of the lake. And one particular peak is shrouded in dark legend.

“From the summit, locals saw lights, they heard the beating of drums,” says our guide, Isaac. “They were scared, thought it was haunted.” So, they named that peak Ghost Mountain.

Ghost Mountain sunset

Moments later, as if drawn to the coming twilight, the animals start to emerge from the twisted vegetation along the shore. Waterbucks, eland, nyala. And soon after them, hippos. Lots of them. Surrounding our double-decker boat, as we stare down at them from the top, sundowner gin and tonics in hand. The eerie light, the phantom mountain, the dangerous beasts all around us – it might be frightening, if it weren’t so beautiful.

One hippo jumps up, shakes his head at us – a move of aggression. Isaac smiles, not at all worried. “He’s showing us he’s big,” he says. We all take another sip of gin, as the skies begin to darken around Ghost Mountain.

I’m in the South African state of Kwazulu-Natal, a beautiful and often-wild place stretching up the Indian Ocean coast from Durban. Despite its many charms and attractions, this region is often overlooked by visitors. They often head further up, to the famous safari thrills at Kruger National Park and its surrounding private game preserves. Or way down the coast, to Cape Town and its salubrious pastimes, including beach, food, wine, and nightlife.

But Kwazulu-Natal – or KZN, as it’s often abbreviated – is a destination emerging. Here, you’ll find the very best this country has to offer: namely, wild, sometimes wooly bush, and some of the best beaches in the world, particularly new, dreamy destinations like Sala Beach House.

View of Shaka’s Rock from Sala Beach House

From the steaming streets of Durban, the state capital (and the country’s third-largest city), it’s an easy 45-minute drive up the coast to Shaka’s Rock. Leaving the highway, you wind down toward the water. This area is often called the Dolphin Coast – spotting these playful creatures frolicking in the waves is a routine occurrence.

This area is often called the Dolphin Coast

Arriving, I exhale. A small boutique hotel, the Beach House looks and feels like exactly that –visiting a wealthy friend who has built a vacation home on a stunning spot. Massive floor-to-ceiling windows (which can slide all the way to the side) overlook a terrace with pool and fire pit. Below that spreads dark volcanic rock and waves crashing on a blue-flag beach.

My initial instinct is obvious: take a nap. But first, a guide named Ethan Summerville has offered to take me for a little hike. He explains that this big rock was once used by the legendary King Shaka to mete out punishment to his enemies. Today, it’s our jumping-off point for an exploration of the inter-tidal zone.

“When the tide rolls out, it leaves all sorts of creatures behind in these pools,” he says, as we climb up and down different levels of rock. Mussels in one, which, he says, are harvested daily by the locals. We also spot colourful fish like Sargent majors, and many, many crabs, scrambling in every direction. In the bigger pools, he notes that you can find everything from eels to octopus to sharks.

Returning to the Beach House, I’m ready for my nap. My room extends right out onto the terrace, and I leave my door open. As the sound of crashing waves rolls through my door, I begin to drift off.

And then, I sit bolt upright in my bed. Something—or someone – is in my room. I shake off those early cobwebs of a light sleep. Looking to my right, realize I’m being invaded by a small platoon of vervet monkeys.

Velvet Monkey

Bold, mischievous, and a little too smart, they have determined that the welcome basket on my counter, which includes several apples, will make an easy meal. The boldest scrambles up there, a few feet away, and in a coordinated action, about four or five of the little simians make off with all the fruit in my basket.

My heart pounds. I must take action to save my stash of chocolate. Jumping up and clapping my hands, I drive them back out the door – a few run out quickly, but the leader exits only after a reluctant look over his shoulder.

Even more wildlife encounters await. Further up the coast, I settle in at a pretty hotel set amongst sylvan, spreading trees at Ghost Mountain Inn, a place steeped in Zulu culture. I ride in the back of a jeep through the Manyoni Private Game Reserve, a 25,000-hectare preserve where all of the Big Five roam and where packs of wild dogs have recently been reintroduced. There is a strong movement underway in the area to make that space even bigger, for each individual game park to drop their fences and create a massive, united Zululand reserve.

At Manyoni, we park by the misty bends of the Msumdzu River and watch a pair of lions – a lioness, and her young daughter – stalk a nyala. The cub is just learning to hunt. In a pincer movement, they stealthily flank the unsuspecting small antelope. But the young lion pops up out of the grass a little too soon, and the prey escapes, hoofs beating a swift retreat. The lions are foiled but the antelope is surely happy to live another day.

Lioness and cub watching for prey

Wild dogs have been reintroduced to Manyoni Private Game Reserve

On nearby Jozini Lake, as the hippos continue to pop up around our double-decker boat, spouting and showing us their teeth, we sip another g + t and hear the legend of Ghost Mountain. We learn that powerful chiefs were once buried there, by night, at the top, with much ceremony. There were pounding drums, and bright torches, which may explain the lights and sounds those long-ago people interpreted as something supernatural.

It all swims in my mind as night falls and we return to shore. I think of all the hippos, and lions, and little crabs in the tidal pools. A picnic tomorrow, maybe, under those big trees. Back at the inn, I drift off to sleep, not haunted, exactly, but with the images of this place looming large, like a benevolent phantom. And I rest assured of a peaceful sleep, because I’ve secured the window and doors – no monkeys in my room, tonight.

Sala Beach House

Close your eyes, and slip into a beautiful beach reverie. As you lie down in the middle of the afternoon, a summery southern sun slants down outside. The green of the gardens gives way to black volcanic rock, then to the blue of the sea. Floral scents waft in your open door and an endless procession of waves, rolling in from the Indian Ocean, crashes below on the shore.

At Sala Beach House, this fantasy is a reality for guests. With just eight rooms, the feeling is small, and personal. On arrival, two things impress right away. The warm welcome extended by staff, who already know your name, and the sweeping views out to the water through massive floor-to-ceiling windows, which fold back during fair weather.

While each of the rooms and suites enjoys a lovely view, you’re likely to spend the lion’s share of your time in the communal spaces. When the sun is shining, terraced, palm-lined grounds with a small swimming pool, curvy benches wrapped around a fire pit, lounge chairs, and a barbecue, are all perfect for a South African braai (which staff can arrange).

Explore the tidal pools below, golf nearby, or take a surf lesson on Thompson’s Bay Beach, which awaits at the end of a set of stairs. In season, search the horizon carefully to spot five species of whales, including humpbacks and minkes.

The on-site restaurant is a highlight. Spotlighting local produce and featuring seafood caught and delivered by local fishermen, the cuisine brings together some of the cultures that make this part of South Africa so compelling. African, French Mauritian, European and Indian … think of prawn bisque and salmon ceviche and seafood curries. Eat and drink out on the patio. Then walk a few steps to your bed, and drift off to sleep to the sound of those waves.

Ghost Mountain Inn

Right in the heart of Zululand, this corner of South Africa still feels a bit remote – in all the best ways. And that was truly the case when Ghost Mountain Inn first opened its doors in 1962. Back then, the road was long and dusty, with few accommodations of any sort along the way. So, a local couple began taking in travelers, feeding and giving them a place to rest, in their own home. Eventually, they opened a small hotel.

Still family owned and run, this four-star country inn still has that same sense of warmth and hospitality that welcomes guests. It’s no longer diminutive. Now, multiple buildings surround five acres of spreading gardens filled with big trees, green lawns, and two swimming pools, surrounded by comfortable lounge chairs. Choose from a wide variety of accommodations in 74 rooms and suites. Some of the suites have luxurious deep-soaker, stand-alone bathtubs and outdoor showers, with views of the gardens and a nearby lake. When you stay here, you’ll have plenty of places to get outside, breathe the fresh air, and perhaps enjoy a picnic in the shade (a very nice option offered by the culinary team).

The surrounding area is exceptionally beautiful, and filled with activities. The Inn sits at the base of its namesake, legendary mountain, part of the larger Lebombo range. Just a short drive will take you to sweeping, undulating vistas, with broad valleys curling all the way up to jagged and dramatic summits.

Staff can arrange adventures in the nearby Manyoni Private Game Reserve, including game drives, birding trips and walking safaris. They’ll also take you to a Zulu village and homestead to learn about this fascinating culture. And a tiger fishing trip, or a sunset cruise on Lake Jozini isn’t something you’ll soon – or ever – forget.

Return to the Inn for a massage at the spa, which uses organic skin-care line Terres D’Afrique. Follow that up with a gin-and-tonic on the patio at Roy’s Bar before settling in for a hearty dinner at the traditional African boma, under the stars and by a warm, crackling fire. Then head back to your suite to rest up so you can do it all again, tomorrow.

Written By Tim Johnson for Cruise and Travel Lifestyles (Fall 2024)