Tuning into Southern Queensland

Brisbane’s neighbour to the south reveals sun-drenched sand, slow-travel treats, Indigenous heritage and mindful moments.

DOUG WALLACE

Written by LIZ FLEMING for Cruise and Travel Lifestyles (Winter 2025)

Performing a Welcome to Country ceremony

HISPS OF HERBAL SMOKE and the meditative buzz of the didgeridoo draw everyone to the beach. A Kombumerri and Quandamooka woman, a traditional owner of the beautiful city of Gold Coast in the southern tip of Queensland, performs a Welcome to Country ceremony. It's a symbolic gesture, thousands of years old. Indigenous Australians used smoke as a form of communication, lighting a fire to signal the entrance to another group's country or area. And with this ritual, we embark on an adventure of soothing proportions.

Initially, I was surprised that Gold Coast was an actual city, as opposed to just a suburb of Brisbane famous for its surfing pedigree. "The Goldie," as it's called, offers about 50 km of coastline, some of the best surf breaks in the world – not that I will need one, but it's nice to watch – and one of the most iconic skylines in Australia.

Those thinking that Gold Coast is just a Florida rip-off or a tourist trap like Honolulu can think again. These sun-drenched strips of sand – Surfers Paradise Beach, Gold Coast Beach and the slightly more subdued Broadbeach – are off the radar of most international travellers.

There's a hotel for every budget, quite a number of theme parks to choose from if you're bringing the family, a vibrant nightlife filled with rooftop bars and flash restaurants, quiet headlands where you will no doubt spend a lot of your time, and an interesting hinterland offering lush rainforests, national parks, waterfalls and hiking trails. I'm set for the best of many different worlds and hoping I brought the right clothes.

Chilling out in the suburbs.

When the sunscreen starts to melt into my eyes, we edge away from the beach a bit and into real local life. Chumming up to the residents is the key to enjoying Burleigh Heads, a Gold Coast neighbourhood anchored to Burleigh Beach. Visitors stroll the boardwalk, hang out in the James Street cafés and shops, pop into a multitude of breweries with cool names like Black Hops and Precinct – these people love their beer – and sift through the pop-up stalls at the Village Markets. The dining scene here is amazing, too, with the list of things to do just as long.

Coastal dining at Burleigh Heads

Guided walks by a traditional landowner from the Jellurgal Aboriginal Cultural Centre will shed some light on the region's Indigenous heritage. Hearing the "dreamtime stories" associated with the Kombumerri people reveals their traditional way of life – and you may even learn a few words of Yugambeh. You should also make time for the Rainforest Circuit at Burleigh Head National Park. Hike through rocky foreshore and forest – before or after your picnic lunch – on the lookout for whales and sea eagles.

The park is part of a little peninsula at the mouth of Tallebudgera Creek, which is the favourite local spot for swimming, picnicking, paddling and fishing. It's here that I do something I've always wanted to try – standup paddle-board yoga. Connecting with Sarni'a Rose of Pure Aloha Yoga, we paddle out – some faster than others, but there's lots of time. Sarni'a has us drop little anchors off our boards, and we let the gentle current line us up, the ropes taut. I trust in my core, managing the basic poses of the meditative, half-hour session. It's tricky – as I expected – but fun and relaxing, just like the neighbourhood itself.

Standup paddleboard yoga at the mouth of Tallebudgera Creek

Discovering the green behind the gold.

With buzzwords like "eco-retreats," "regenerative tourism" and "edu-vation," leave-no-trace travel is trending. Gold Coast manages to put its money where its mouth is, offering sustainable experiences and wellness opportunities that go beyond mere eco-friendliness.

The Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary is an excellent starting point, especially for families. It has been protecting the surrounding rainforest and its resident animals for more than 70 years, amassing a collection of local and exotic fauna, some requiring the help of the on-site animal hospital.

And when we head inland to find the natural wonders and wellness elements that the Currumbin Valley is noted for, we don't have to go far to find bubbling waterfalls, rustic cafés and luxury retreats. There are the ancient, UNESCO-listed Gondwana Rainforests to revel in, cycling routes to follow and wine to taste, all at a nice pace – this is slow travel, after all.

The Ecovillage at Currumbin is a 110-hectare sustainable community, where hundreds of animals share their space with residents, including more than 65 kangaroos. Natural pitstops for this day trip include a swim in the Currumbin Rock Pools and a hike to Cougal Cascades, to literally have a nature bath and get the heart pumping on the trails.

Larapinta Falls, Lamington National Park

Finding a patch of peace in the valley.

When it comes time to wander the lush grounds at Eden Health Retreat, I see how easy it is to manage a total escape, internet and all. Word has it that an Australian celebrity is one of the guests, but we're tourists, so no one looks remotely familiar. The retreat is renowned for its healthy food and wellness programming, including yoga and Pilates, scenic bushwalks, indulgent spa treatments and crystal bowl sound healing. A Vitality Centre offers cutting-edge treatments like cryotherapy and dry float therapy, which simulates the sensation of floating on water.

Eden Health Retreat

We hit the floor of a large, open studio and sink into our mats for a session of breathwork. An instructor explains the link between our breathing and our mental state. I pay close attention – until my inner landscape goes very quiet — I know I'm not asleep, but the instructor's voice seems to be miles away. When it comes time to snap out of it, I feel like I've had a big nap, so refreshed in just a few minutes.

This breathing practice is something I will be taking home, an unexpected souvenir. Good ideas gained while travelling are always a bonus, and the slice of so-soothing life in southern Queensland is one I could really get into. Now that I've had a taste of it, I will surely be back for more.

Written by DOUG WALLACE for Cruise and Travel Lifestyles (Winter 2025)