The Balmoral: A Stately Stay in Scotland

We pulled in at the stately Balmoral Hotel and spotted a bagpiper with a fiery red tartan kilt and a bushy grey mustache playing out in front. The doorman wore blue tartan pants, a blue-green vest, long jacket, white shirt, and a pale blue tie.

We hadn’t even set foot inside and were already thrilled to be staying the night.

The interior didn’t disappoint, either. As we walked to the check-in desk we passed a shiny black table with an enormous collection of polished silver vases holding dainty white blossoms and a tall spike of feathery, purple flowers.

Prince Brasserie Restaurant

Behind the flower display was the hotel’s Palm Court, an elegant room with pastoral scenes on the walls, palm trees and a table topped by three small trees with tiny pink/peach-coloured flowers and hundreds of white lights. A harpist played in an alcove on the second floor, and Leonard Cohen’s “Hallelujah” wafted down as guests sipped their tea.

Our recently renovated room, decorated in neutral tones, with splashes of deep green and burgundy, had a fine view of Princes Street and Edinburgh Castle. The sizable washroom was laid out in Italian marble and featured lovely Irene Forte bath products.

Scone & Crombie Suite

We checked out the gym and loved the whimsical wallpaper with old-time weightlifters, the expansive 15-meter pool and relaxation deck. The hotel, built in 1902, has wide staircases created to accommodate turn of the century women’s skirts, and prevent the lovely ladies from bumping into each other. We discovered that Balmoral means “majestic dwelling” in Gaelic, and that it’s the only Forbes five-star rated hotel in Scotland.

Dinner at the Prince Brasserie was exquisite; local oysters, rich Scotland crab, and lamb so tender it almost cut itself. We read later that the Queen Mother used to come regularly for a roast lamb luncheon. Good taste, Ma’a m; good taste.

We repaired to SCOTCH, a handsome bar with more than 450 types of whisky. A bartender in a kilt that my wife couldn’t help but admire poured me a couple of drams, and we let the evening drift away.

Written by Jim Byers for Cruise & Travel Lifestyles (Summer 2024)

All photos courtesy of The Balmoral.